Central Quintana Roo, a section of Caribbean coast that includes the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve and the area known as the Zona Maya, exists in stark contrast to the northern half of the state. The north contains over half a million full-time residents living in the various resorts of Cancún, Isla Mujeres, Playa del Carmen and Cozumel, while in the more than 6,000 sq. km of the reserve, the population is under 1,000. The north is urban and modern; the center of the state is rural and traditional, inhabited by indigenous Maya living in the small communities of their ancestors.
The Maya of central Quintana Roo are descendents of the cruzoob, the rebels of the Caste War who fled into the jungle, to a stronghold they called Chan Santa Cruz. They still speak Maya and keep many of the old ways: rituals, fiestas, religious beliefs and agricultural methods. There are few archaeological sites in the area and the colonial churches lie in ruins – most were torched by the Maya during the Caste War – it is the people of the Zona Maya that are interesting.
En route to the coast, some 60 km from Felipe Carrillo Puerto, lies Sian Ka’an. Around 35% of this huge reserve is still in pristine condition and most of the Yucatan’s ecosystems are found here. Plant and animal life is extremely diverse and a visit to the reserve is worthwhile.
The central area of the state is little-known and rarely visited. Nevertheless, it is an interesting trip for history (vestiges of the Caste War and the opportunity to visit modern Mayan communities) and nature (the Sian Ka’an Reserve) buffs alike.